A macrame mirror frame turns a plain circular mirror into a boho statement piece that looks hand-crafted and expensive — because it is. The technique wraps a metal ring frame with cord, then radiates knotted arms outward to create a sunburst effect around a functional mirrored center. The result hangs like wall art but doubles as a mirror you can actually use.
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What You Need
Before you start, gather everything so you're not hunting for supplies mid-project.
Frame and mirror:
- 12" Metal Ring Frames — the structural backbone of the piece. Metal holds its shape better than wood for heavier mirrors.
- A circular mirror, 6 to 8 inches in diameter (from a craft store or dollar store)
- Strong adhesive such as E6000
Cord:
- Single-Strand Macrame Cord (Regular Rolls) in 3mm or 4mm — 3mm gives a delicate sunburst; 4mm reads bolder from across the room. Use code KNOT10 for 10% off.
Optional accents:
- 2" Wooden Rings — thread onto radial arms for a layered, boho detail
Tools:
- Sharp scissors
- Macrame board with T-pins (helps hold the ring flat while knotting)
- Measuring tape and a marker for spacing
If you're still building out your toolkit, the guide to best macrame tools for beginners covers what's worth buying and what you can skip.
Understanding the Design
This project has three distinct zones:
- The wrapped ring — cord covers the metal frame so the hardware disappears
- The radial arms — knotted lengths of cord that radiate outward like sunbeams
- The mirrored center — the functional heart, glued in at the end
The ratio of arm length to ring size determines the overall look. Short arms (15 to 20cm) give a tight, geometric sunburst. Longer arms (25 to 35cm) with brushed-out fringe tips read as more organic and boho. This tutorial uses medium arms that fall in between.
For cord selection, single-strand cotton is ideal here because it unravels cleanly into fringe. 3-ply cord does not brush out the same way — if you want a fluffy fringe effect at the arm tips, single-strand is the right call. Read more about the difference in the macrame cord types comparison.
How to Make a Macrame Mirror Frame
Step 1: Gather and Cut Your Cord
Cut 16 cords, each 120cm long, for the radial arms. These will be folded in half, so the working length of each arm will be about 60cm — enough for 5 to 6 square knots plus a fringe tail.
Cut one cord 500cm long (5 meters) for wrapping the ring frame. This sounds like a lot, but a 12-inch ring has roughly 95cm of circumference, and tight half-hitches use cord quickly.
Set aside four or five 30cm scraps for any finishing knots or repairs.
Step 2: Wrap the Ring Frame
This step is the most meditative part of the project. Take your 500cm wrapping cord and anchor one end to the ring with a simple knot. Then work tight half-hitch knots around the entire ring, pulling each knot snug before placing the next.
Work in one direction all the way around. The goal is full coverage — no bare metal visible. When you reach the start, tie off to the tail and trim both ends close. The wrapped ring feels sturdy and polished and gives the lark's head knots in the next step something to grip.
Step 3: Attach the Radial Arm Cords
Mark 16 evenly spaced points around the ring with tape or a marker. On a 12-inch ring, the circumference is about 95cm, so spacing lands every 6cm roughly.
Fold each 120cm cord in half and loop the fold over the ring at a marked point, pulling the two cord ends through the loop — this is a lark's head knot. Work all 16 cords around the ring. Once attached, you have 32 cord ends radiating outward.
Step 4: Knot the Radial Arms
Group the cord ends into 16 pairs — the two strands from each lark's head knot. On each pair, tie 4 square knots working outward from the ring. Keep your tension consistent.
Square knots can feel slow at first. If you haven't tied them before, the beginner's guide to macrame has a clear breakdown of the basic knot vocabulary. Practice on a scrap length before starting on the actual arms.
For variation: tie 4 knots on the side arms and 6 knots on the top and bottom arms, which subtly emphasizes the vertical axis and makes the piece feel intentional rather than perfectly symmetrical.
Step 5: Add Accent Rings (Optional)
If you're using 2" Wooden Rings, now is the moment. Thread a wooden ring onto one or two of the lower radial arms, sliding it down to about 2 to 3cm from the last square knot. Tie a single overhand knot behind the ring to lock it in place. It should sit flat against the arm and not slide around.
This detail adds a layer of dimension that photographs especially well. Use one ring for a minimalist look; three or four scattered across the lower half of the frame for a fuller boho effect.
Step 6: Trim and Brush the Fringe
Trim the cord ends on each arm to your preferred fringe length. The cleanest option is a straight, even cut — all 16 arms the same length. For a more organic look, cut at a slight angle so the outer strands are a centimeter or two longer than the inner strands.
To brush single-strand cotton into fluffy fringe, use a stiff-bristled brush or your fingers. Separate the twisted fibers and comb through until the end becomes a soft cloud. This takes 30 seconds per arm and transforms the finished look from structured to textured.
If the fringe ends up uneven after brushing, a quick trim with sharp scissors fixes it.
Step 7: Attach the Mirror
This step requires patience. Apply a thin, even bead of strong adhesive (E6000 works well) around the back outer edge of your circular mirror. Center the mirror inside the ring frame, adhesive side down, and press firmly.
Lay the entire piece flat on a table — ring frame down, mirror face up — and let it cure undisturbed for at least 24 hours. Rushing this step is the main reason mirrors fall out later.
Once cured, the mirror and frame become a single solid unit.
Step 8: Hang the Finished Piece
Thread an S-hook ring through the ring frame at the 12 o'clock position. Hang it from a nail, hook, or picture hanging strip.
Before the adhesive fully set (while still in the 24-hour cure window, if you can), step back and check that all 16 arms radiate evenly. Gently nudge any arm that has shifted before the glue locks everything in place permanently.
Sizing and Customization
The 12-inch frame size in this tutorial suits a standard wall gallery or an entryway hook. For a larger statement piece, scale up: an 18-inch ring with 24 radial arms and 5mm cord makes a room-defining sunburst. For a smaller accent, a 6-inch ring with 8 arms works well as a cluster piece when you hang three together at varying heights.
Cord color is where the real personality comes in. Natural off-white reads as clean and Scandinavian. Warm terracotta or sage makes the piece feel more maximalist. For a modern edge, a charcoal grey single-strand cord against a white wall is striking. See the macrame cord size guide for how thickness changes the look at different frame sizes.
Troubleshooting
Arms bunching instead of radiating outward: Too many cords for the ring size, or lark's head knots placed too close together. Remove a few cords and redistribute.
Mirror sitting off-center: Usually from applying adhesive unevenly. If it's caught early (within 30 minutes of glueing), the mirror can be repositioned. After that, it's set.
Fringe tips splaying messily: Lightly mist each fringe tip with water, smooth between your fingers, and let dry. The cotton re-sets as it dries.
What's Next
Once your mirror frame is hanging, the natural next project is a full macrame wall hanging to pair with it — start with macrame wall hanging ideas for composition inspiration. If you want to try adding beads to your radial arms, the easy macrame wall hanging with beads tutorial covers bead placement techniques that transfer directly to this project.
