/ macrame / intermediate
By Veronica Hua

Macrame Arch Wall Hanging: Curved Frame Tutorial

Learn how to make a macrame arch wall hanging using a metal hoop as your structural frame. Step-by-step tutorial for an elegant curved piece.

A macrame arch wall hanging with a symmetrical fan shape, made using a metal hoop frame and natural cotton cord

A macrame arch wall hanging uses a metal hoop as a structural backbone, then fans cords downward in a symmetrical spread to create a curved, elegant silhouette. The arch shape comes from attaching cords only across the top half of the hoop and angling diagonal rows outward from a central point. This intermediate project takes about three hours and produces a piece that looks far more complex than the techniques actually are.

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What You Will Need

Before you start, gather your materials. The right cord weight and a good work surface make a significant difference with this project.

Cord: A 4mm or 5mm single-strand cotton cord works best for arch wall hangings. The thicker weight holds the diagonal rows clearly visible and gives the fringe a satisfying fluffiness when combed out. Single-Strand Macrame Cord (Regular Rolls) is a good all-purpose choice — use code KNOT10 for 10% off.

Frame: You need a 12" Metal Ring Frame as your arch backbone. Metal rings hold their shape under cord tension, which wooden dowels cannot do when you are pulling diagonal rows across a curved surface.

Work surface: A Macrame Board with T-Pins is essential for this project. You will pin the hoop in place to check symmetry while you knot. Without a fixed surface, the hoop rotates and your fan shape drifts off-center.

Scissors and a fringe comb finish the list. Sharp scissors matter when you are cutting 30 to 40 cords cleanly.

For a full overview of beginner-friendly tools, see our best macrame tools for beginners guide.

Understanding the Arch Structure

The arch shape in this wall hanging is structural, not decorative. The metal hoop acts as a rigid anchor. You attach cords only to the top arc of the hoop — roughly the upper half — and leave the bottom bare. All the visual interest happens in the knotted section hanging below.

The fan shape develops through two mechanisms working together:

  1. Even lark's head attachment across the arch — spreading cords evenly from center-left to center-right naturally fans them outward at the edges.
  2. Diagonal half-hitch rows — pulling these at an inward angle from both edges creates V-shaped lines that visually frame the piece.

When these two elements work together, the result reads as a unified arch even though the cords are all straight lines below the hoop.

If you are not yet comfortable with half-hitch knots, review our 5 macrame knots every beginner should learn before starting.

How to Make a Macrame Arch Wall Hanging

Step 1: Set Up Your Hoop and Workspace

Pin your 12-inch metal ring frame to a macrame board at eye level. Use T-pins at the top of the hoop to keep it from rotating. You want it completely stable so you can judge symmetry as you work.

Stand back from your board every few rows. Small asymmetries are invisible up close but obvious from three feet away. Catching them early saves significant rework.

Step 2: Cut and Attach Cords with Lark's Head Knots

Cut 30 to 40 cord lengths at 90 inches (230 cm) each. The exact number depends on how dense you want the piece — 30 cords makes a looser, airier look, 40 cords makes a fuller, denser arch.

Fold each cord in half and attach it to the top half of the hoop using a standard lark's head knot. Pull each knot snug but not so tight that the cord bunches around the metal.

Start at the very top center of the hoop and work outward toward both sides simultaneously — one cord on the left, one on the right, repeating until you reach the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions on the hoop. This keeps your center point anchored from the start.

Step 3: Mark the Center and Divide Cord Groups

Once all cords are attached, you have a curtain of doubled cords hanging from the arch. Identify the two center cords (they come from the cord attached dead-center at the top). These are your axis of symmetry.

Separate the cords into a left group and a right group. From this point forward, everything you do on the left gets mirrored on the right. Working in tandem rather than completing one side first makes it much easier to keep the piece balanced.

Step 4: Tie the First Row of Square Knots

Tie a row of square knots across all cords, starting just below the hoop. Group cords in sets of four — two working cords and two filler cords — and tie standard square knots across the full width of the piece.

This row anchors the cords to the hoop and creates the dense upper edge that defines the arch shape. Keep tension consistent across the row. Uneven tension in this row shows through every subsequent row below it.

For a refresher on square knot technique, see our beginners guide to macrame.

Step 5: Create Diagonal Half-Hitch Rows for the Fan Shape

This step creates the V-shaped lines that give the arch hanging its characteristic look.

Take the outermost cord on the right side. Hold it at a diagonal angle pointing down and to the left (inward toward center). This cord becomes your anchor cord — it does not move.

With each working cord to the left of your anchor, tie a double half-hitch onto the anchor cord, moving from the outer edge toward the center. The working cords wrap around the anchor cord and create a clean diagonal line.

Repeat the mirror image on the left side: take the outermost left cord, angle it down and to the right, and tie double half-hitches with each working cord moving right toward center.

When both diagonal rows meet at the center bottom, you have your first V. The two diagonal lines together form the fan.

Step 6: Build Additional Rows of Texture

Continue adding rows below the first V. Each subsequent row of diagonal half-hitches steps inward slightly, narrowing the active cord area as the piece tapers toward the bottom.

Between diagonal rows, add a row or two of square knots to fill the body of the piece and add texture variation. A typical arch wall hanging has 2 to 4 diagonal V-rows total, depending on how long you want the knotted section.

Check symmetry after every row. Step back, look at the piece from a normal viewing distance, and adjust before moving on.

Step 7: Gather and Finish the Fringe

Once your knotted section reaches the length you want, bring all remaining cords together for the fringe finish.

You have a few options:

  • Single gathered fringe: Pull all cords together and tie one gathering knot, letting everything hang loose below.
  • Two-section fringe: Divide cords into two equal groups, gather each separately, and create a split fringe with a small gap in the middle.
  • Tapered cut: Trim the fringe to a V-shape — shortest at the outer edges, longest at center — which echoes the arch shape above.

All three finishes work. The single gathered fringe is the simplest and suits a minimalist aesthetic. The tapered cut creates the most visual continuity with the arch form above.

For gathering knot technique, see our gathering knot macrame tutorial.

Step 8: Comb and Finish

Use a stiff brush or fringe comb to brush out the fringe into soft, separated strands. Work from the ends upward in short strokes to avoid pulling the gathering knot loose.

Trim any uneven ends after combing — the combing process can shift lengths slightly. A straight horizontal cut or a gentle V-cut both look clean.

Remove from the board, hang from the top of the hoop, and adjust the position of any cords that shifted during finishing.

Getting the Symmetry Right

Symmetry is the main technical challenge in arch wall hangings. A few habits that help:

Count cords before every row. Before you start any new row, count that you have the same number of cords on each side. A miscount compounds with every row below it.

Use your board as a ruler. The grid of T-pin holes on a macrame board gives you horizontal and vertical reference lines. Pin your anchor cords to the board to hold the diagonal angle consistent across the row.

Step back constantly. Your hands and eyes are too close to the work to judge symmetry accurately. Three feet away gives you the real picture.

Work both sides simultaneously. Complete a partial row on one side, switch to the same position on the other side, then come back. Keeping both sides at the same row prevents you from unconsciously drifting.

Cord Weight Considerations

The arch shape shows differently depending on cord thickness:

  • 3mm cord makes a delicate, fine-textured piece with subtle diagonal lines. The fringe is lighter and hangs in thinner strands.
  • 4mm cord is the standard for this type of piece. Diagonal rows read clearly, the square knot texture is visible from across a room, and the fringe brushes out beautifully.
  • 5mm cord makes a bold, chunky arch with pronounced texture. It uses significantly more cord and takes longer to knot, but the result is dramatic.

For most intermediate makers, 4mm single-strand cotton is the right starting point. Check our macrame cord size guide for a complete comparison.

What's Next

Once you are comfortable with the arch format, the natural next step is adding beads or varied knot textures to the body of the piece. Our easy macrame wall hanging with beads tutorial shows how to incorporate wooden beads into a wall hanging design — the same technique transfers directly to an arch piece. For more wall hanging design ideas, browse our macrame wall hanging ideas gallery.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size metal hoop is best for a macrame arch wall hanging?

A 12-inch metal ring frame is ideal for a beginner arch piece — large enough to show off the fan shape, small enough to manage cord tension comfortably. Larger hoops (16 to 18 inches) work well once you have the technique down.

How long should my cords be for a macrame arch wall hanging?

For a 12-inch hoop, cut cords to roughly 4 to 5 times the finished length you want below the hoop. If you want 18 inches of knotted fringe, start with cords about 80 to 90 inches (200-230 cm) long.

Can I use a full circle hoop for an arch wall hanging?

Yes. You attach cords only to the top half of the hoop, leaving the bottom bare or wrapping it for a clean edge. The arch shape comes from how you angle and arrange the cords, not from the hoop shape itself.

What knots are used in a macrame arch wall hanging?

The foundation knots are lark's head knots (to attach cords), square knots (for body texture), and half-hitch diagonal rows (to create the fan angle). Gathering knots finish the fringe sections.

How do I get a symmetrical fan shape?

Work from the center outward on both sides simultaneously, counting cords and rows carefully. Pinning your hoop to a macrame board while you work keeps it level and makes it much easier to judge symmetry.

Is a macrame arch wall hanging difficult for beginners?

It is rated intermediate because of the angled diagonal rows and the need to manage cord tension across a curved frame. If you are comfortable with square knots and half-hitches, you can attempt this. Complete beginners should try a flat wall hanging first.

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macrame wall hanging arch hoop tutorial