The diagonal clove hitch is the knot that gives geometric macrame its clean, angled lines. Tie a series of clove hitches along a carrier cord held at an angle, and the resulting row follows that exact slant across your work. It is the foundation for diamonds, chevrons, V-shapes, and any pattern built from angled lines rather than straight horizontal rows. This tutorial covers how to hold the carrier cord, how to tie each knot, and how to keep your diagonal lines crisp from edge to edge.
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What You Need Before You Start
You only need a few things for this technique:
- Macrame cord — 3mm or 4mm single-strand cotton is ideal. The round profile of single-strand cord shows the angled line clearly and the knots stack neatly.
- A carrier cord — cut separately, at least 1.5 times the width of your project, so you have enough to grip.
- A macrame board with T-pins — pinning the carrier cord at the correct angle is the single most important setup step.
- Scissors and a measuring tape
The Single-Strand Macrame Cord (Regular Rolls) from Bochiknot is well suited to diagonal work — the consistent twist holds knot shape along the entire diagonal row. Use code KNOT10 for 10% off your order. For your board, the 11x15" Macrame Board with T-Pins gives you the pinnable surface you need to lock the carrier cord angle in place.
If you are not yet comfortable with a basic clove hitch, spend a few minutes with our 5 essential macrame knots guide before continuing. The diagonal version is exactly the same knot — only the carrier cord angle changes.
Understanding the Carrier Cord
The carrier cord is what makes a diagonal clove hitch diagonal. In a horizontal row, you hold the carrier cord perfectly level. For a diagonal row, you tilt it — and the knots follow.
The steeper the angle of the carrier cord, the steeper the diagonal line. A 45-degree angle produces a sharp diagonal; a shallower angle produces a gentle slope. The exact angle is up to you and your design, but it must stay consistent across the entire row.
This is why pinning the carrier cord matters. If you hold it freehand, it drifts. Pin the high end to your board with a T-pin before you start the first knot, and re-check the angle every few knots as you work across.
How to Tie a Diagonal Clove Hitch Row
Step 1: Set Up Your Working Cords
Mount your cords onto a dowel or ring so they hang vertically. Each working cord should be cut to at least four times the finished length of your project — diagonal rows use roughly the same cord per knot as a horizontal row, so your normal cord length calculations still apply.
For a practice sampler, cut eight cords at 80cm (about 32 inches) each and fold them in half over a dowel. That gives you 16 working ends to practice with.
Step 2: Cut and Position the Carrier Cord
Cut a separate carrier cord at least 1.5 times the width of your piece. Hold it diagonally across the working cords with the high end at the upper left and the low end pointing to the lower right (for a left-to-right diagonal). Pin the high end firmly to your board.
You can adjust the angle to anything that fits your design. For a classic 45-degree diagonal, the carrier cord should drop one unit of height for every one unit of width.
Step 3: Tie the First Clove Hitch
Take the first working cord on the left. Drape it over the top of the carrier cord, then bring it under the carrier and up through the loop you just formed. Pull snug — that is the first half hitch. Immediately repeat: drape over, under, through. Pull snug again. Two half hitches together make one clove hitch.
The knot should sit firmly on the carrier cord without sliding. If it slides, the half hitches were not pulled tight enough.
Step 4: Work Across the Row
Pick up the next working cord to the right and tie the same two half hitches around the carrier cord. Continue one cord at a time, moving left to right. The carrier cord will angle downward as you add knots, so each new knot sits lower and slightly to the right of the previous one — that is the diagonal taking shape.
After every two or three knots, pause and check the carrier cord angle. Re-pin if it has shifted. This one habit is what separates clean diagonal lines from wobbly ones.
Step 5: Lock the End of the Row
When you reach the last working cord on the right, tie one extra half hitch around the carrier cord end to prevent the row from loosening. You can then weave the carrier cord end into the back of the work or trim it after tying a small overhand knot.
Step 6: Begin the Second Diagonal Row
For a second parallel diagonal row, bring the carrier cord back across the work from left to right again, starting just below the first row. The carrier end that you just locked becomes the start of the new row if you loop it back, or you can introduce a fresh carrier cord.
For a crossing diagonal — the kind that creates a V or diamond — reverse the angle. Start the carrier cord at the upper right and work toward the lower left. Where the two diagonal rows meet in the middle, you get a point. This is the foundation of diamond patterns common in modern boho macrame wall hangings.
Step 7: Finish and Adjust
Once all your diagonal rows are tied, work across the piece and check tension. Slide any loose knots tighter with your fingertip. If a knot will not move, you can ease the cord gently — do not yank. Trim or weave all carrier cord ends into the back of the work so they do not show from the front.
Maintaining Angle: The Core Skill
New makers often find the first few knots fine but notice the diagonal line curving or straightening by the time they reach the far edge. This happens for two reasons:
- The carrier cord slipped. Re-pin more often — every four or five knots until the angle feels natural.
- Knot tension is uneven. If some knots are pulled very tight and others are loose, the carrier cord bends toward the tighter spots. Work for consistent, firm tension on every knot.
A macrame board with T-pins is essential here, not optional. Working freehand on a rack or hanging from a hook makes it very hard to control the carrier cord angle. Pin the carrier at both ends when you are learning.
Building Geometric Patterns with Diagonals
Once you can tie a clean diagonal row, you can combine rows to build more complex patterns:
- Two V-shapes pointing down create a row of inverted peaks, common in chevron wall hangings.
- A left diagonal meeting a right diagonal creates a diamond outline. Fill the diamond with more clove hitches for a solid diamond, or leave it open.
- Repeating stacked diagonals in alternating directions create the zigzag pattern seen across many geometric pieces.
For inspiration on how these patterns are used in finished pieces, our macrame wall hanging ideas post shows a range of geometric layouts you can adapt.
Cord and Tool Recommendations
A smooth, consistent cord makes diagonal clove hitch rows easier to execute. Braided cord is another solid option — the Braided Macrame Cord (Regular Rolls) slides along the carrier cord cleanly and produces a slightly sleeker look on the diagonal lines than single-strand.
For cord sizing on geometric work, our macrame cord size guide covers how 3mm, 4mm, and 5mm compare in density and texture when tied in rows.
What's Next
Once you are comfortable with single diagonal rows, try building a full diamond panel or a chevron section. Our macrame wall hanging ideas post has layout sketches that use diagonal clove hitches as the primary structural element. If you want to pair diagonal work with a beginner-friendly full project, the macrame plant hanger tutorial introduces angled knot sections in a manageable format.
