A macrame pot holder that fits a ceramic pot correctly should cradle it firmly from the sides, with a bottom knot tight enough to catch the base without scratching it. The secret to a pot holder that never slips is measuring your pot's circumference and base diameter before you cut a single cord, then sizing each knot row to match. This tutorial walks through the full sizing method so you can adapt the pattern to any pot you own — from a narrow terracotta to a wide glazed ceramic bowl.
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What You Need Before You Start
Getting the materials right makes the actual knotting go smoothly. Here is what to gather:
- Single-Strand Macrame Cord (Regular Rolls) — 4mm is ideal for most ceramic pots. Use code KNOT10 for 10% off.
- Macrame Measuring Tape — a flexible tape is essential for wrapping around curved pot surfaces
- Sharp scissors
- A wooden ring or short dowel for the hanging loop
- An S-hook or hanging hook to suspend the work-in-progress while you knot
If you have never tied a square knot before, read the beginners guide to macrame first. You only need two knots for this project — the square knot and the gathering knot — and both are covered there.
How to Measure Your Pot
This is the step most tutorials skip, and it is the reason so many homemade pot holders end up either too loose or so tight the pot has to be forced in.
The Two Measurements You Need
Circumference at the widest point. Wrap your flexible measuring tape around the fullest part of the pot — usually near the top or the belly, depending on the shape. Write this number down.
Base diameter. Set the pot on a flat surface and measure straight across the base. This tells you how tight to make the bottom knot.
Converting Circumference to Opening Size
Your macrame basket opening needs to match or very slightly exceed the pot's widest circumference so the pot can drop in. When you mount 8 cord pairs on a ring, the ring diameter sets the opening. Here is a quick conversion:
- Circumference under 25cm: use a ring or dowel 7–8cm across
- Circumference 25–35cm: use a ring or dowel 9–11cm across
- Circumference over 35cm: use a ring or dowel 12cm or wider, or add extra cord pairs
Do not guess. A ceramic pot dropped into an undersize opening can crack the lip.
How Much Cord to Cut
For a standard pot holder with 8 folded cords (16 working ends):
Each cord length = 8 × target basket depth + 30cm for fringe
For example, a pot that is 20cm tall needs a basket body of roughly 20cm. Each cord should be 8 × 20cm + 30cm = 190cm (about 75 inches). Cut 8 cords at that length.
When in doubt, cut longer. You can always trim the fringe at the end, but you cannot add cord back. See our cord measuring guide for plant hangers for more detailed cutting tables.
Step 1: Measure Your Pot
Wrap the Macrame Measuring Tape around the widest point of your ceramic pot and note the circumference. Also measure the base diameter. These two numbers determine your opening size and bottom ring size.
Step 2: Calculate and Cut Your Cord
For a standard 8-cord holder, cut 8 lengths each equal to 8 times your target basket depth plus 30cm extra for the fringe. Fold each cord in half and mount them onto a wooden ring or dowel using a lark's head knot, giving you 16 working ends.
Step 3: Tie the First Row of Square Knots
Group the 16 cords into sets of 4. Tie a square knot with each group about 5cm below the mounting ring. This is your top row — it forms the rim that will sit just below the pot lip.
Step 4: Measure and Tie the Side Rows
Drop down a measured distance based on your pot's height — roughly one-third of the pot height. Reorganize cords into new groups of 4 (alternating sinnet pattern) and tie a second row of square knots. Repeat for a third row at two-thirds of the pot height.
The alternating pattern (shifting which cords pair together between rows) is what creates the net-like structure that hugs the pot. Each row should sit at a consistent distance. Use your measuring tape between rows — do not eyeball it.
Step 5: Test-Fit and Adjust Spacing
Slip your ceramic pot into the basket from above. The knot rows should hug the sides without pinching. If the pot sits too loose or too tight, adjust the spacing between rows before moving on. This test-fit step is the most important part of the whole tutorial — it catches sizing problems before they are locked in.
If the pot sags through the basket, your rows are spaced too far apart. Move them closer together. If the pot barely fits, your rows are too tight — loosen each knot ring by one square knot or space the rows further down.
Step 6: Tie the Bottom Gathering Knot
Pull all cords together below the pot base and tie a firm gathering knot (also called a wrapping knot) to close the bottom. The wrapped section must be narrow enough that the pot base cannot slide through.
How to check: push the pot base firmly against the gathering knot from inside the basket. It should stop cleanly without sliding through. If the base slips past, unwrap and re-do the gathering knot tighter.
The gathering knot is what makes the holder secure for a heavy ceramic pot. If you want extra security, tie two gathering knots back to back.
Step 7: Trim and Finish
Remove the pot, trim all cord ends to your desired fringe length, and unravel the ends with your fingers for a fluffy look. Rehang and place your ceramic pot inside.
For a clean tassel-style finish, cut all cords to the same length. For a boho layered fringe, cut them at different lengths. Both work well with a natural cotton cord.
Adjusting for Different Pot Shapes
Narrow Tall Pots (Cylinder or Column Shape)
These are the easiest shape. Keep all three knot rows evenly spaced, about one-third of the pot height apart. The alternating square knot pattern will pull inward naturally and hug the sides.
Wide Belly Pots (Bulbous or Oval Shape)
The widest point is in the middle. For these pots, space rows 1 and 3 closer together near the top and bottom, and let row 2 be the widest ring in the middle. Test-fit often during the knotting.
Wide Shallow Bowls
Increase to 12 working cords instead of 8 for wider coverage. Shorten the basket depth significantly and make the opening ring wide enough to match the bowl's diameter. The gathering knot at the bottom must catch the flat base.
Cord Tips for Ceramic Pots
Ceramic pots are heavier than plastic or fabric pots. Choose cord that can handle the weight:
- 4mm single-strand: handles pots up to roughly 2kg comfortably
- 5mm cord: better for large ceramic statement pots over 2kg
- 3-ply cord: gives a rounder, chunkier look to the knots and holds its shape well
The macrame cord size guide has a full breakdown of which cord sizes suit which project types and weights.
Avoid stiff or waxed cords for pot holders. They do not drape well and can scratch glazed ceramic surfaces. Natural cotton is gentle on any ceramic finish.
What's Next
Once your pot holder is done, try expanding the same sizing approach into a full-length macrame plant hanger — the cord math is similar and the pattern is a natural next step. If you want to explore more knot textures for your next holder, the spiral knot tutorial adds a beautiful twisted column effect to any hanging project.
