A macrame planter for trailing plants is not quite the same as a standard plant hanger. The key difference is the basket opening: it needs to be wide enough and open enough that pothos or ivy vines can drape freely around the cord instead of getting pinched inside. This tutorial covers exactly how to size that opening and space the knot rows so your trailing stems cascade the way they are supposed to. The design works for any vining plant in a 4-inch to 6-inch nursery pot.
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What Makes a Trailing-Plant Hanger Different
Most beginner plant hanger tutorials are designed around compact plants — succulents, cacti, or a small fern. Those hangers prioritize holding a pot securely and often have tighter, denser knotwork. Trailing plants like pothos, ivy, heartleaf philodendron, or string of pearls need a looser, more open basket so the vines have clear paths to fall outward.
There are two measurements to get right:
- The opening diameter. Too tight and the pot will not sit at the right height. Too loose and the pot tips. For a standard 4-inch nursery pot, target an opening of 10 to 11 cm across. For a 6-inch pot, 14 to 15 cm.
- The row spacing in the basket section. Standard tutorials often space rows 3 cm apart. For trailing plants, space them 4 to 5 cm so stems have wide gaps to thread through naturally.
Getting both of these right means you spend less time rearranging vines after the plant is in place, and the whole hanger looks intentional rather than tangled.
What You Will Need
- Single-Strand Macrame Cord (Regular Rolls) — 4mm, approximately 24 meters for one hanger. Use code KNOT10 for 10% off.
- Macrame Measuring Tape — accurate measurements matter more for plant hangers than almost any other project.
- A metal or wooden ring, 4 to 6 cm diameter, for hanging
- Sharp scissors
- An S-hook or rail to hang the work while you knot
If you are unsure which cord thickness to choose, our macrame cord size guide explains the tradeoffs between 3mm, 4mm, and 5mm for different project types.
How to Make a Macrame Planter for Trailing Plants
Step 1: Cut and Prepare Your Cords
Cut 8 cords at 3 meters each. Fold each cord in half and attach it to your ring with a lark's head knot — loop the folded end through the ring, then pull both tails through the loop and tighten. After all 8 cords are attached, you have 16 working strands hanging from the ring.
Hang the ring from an S-hook at roughly eye height. Working with the hanger suspended is much easier than working flat on a table — you can see the shape forming and rotate it as you go.
Step 2: Tie the Top Gathering Knot
Cut a separate short piece of cord, about 40 cm. Bundle all 16 strands together and wrap the short cord tightly around them 6 to 8 times, about 12 to 15 cm below the ring. Tie off the wrapping cord firmly at the back. This gathering knot holds all strands together and gives the top of the hanger its clean, bundled look.
The length of clear cord between the ring and the gathering knot controls how far the ring sits above the pot. For a standard ceiling hook or curtain rail, 12 to 15 cm is a good starting point.
Step 3: Divide Into Groups and Tie Square Knots
Divide the 16 strands into 4 equal groups of 4. In each group, the 2 outer strands are your working cords and the 2 inner strands are filler cords. Tie one standard square knot per group, positioning each knot about 15 cm below the gathering knot.
If you need a refresher on the square knot, our beginner's guide to macrame has step-by-step photos for this and other foundational knots.
Step 4: Create the Alternating Square Knot Basket
This is the section that forms the basket your pot sits in. Working 4 to 5 cm below the first row of square knots, start alternating:
- Take 2 strands from one group and 2 strands from the adjacent group.
- Tie a square knot with those 4 strands.
- Repeat all the way around — you will tie 4 alternating square knots total.
Drop another 4 to 5 cm and repeat the alternating row. For a 4-inch pot, 2 to 3 rows of alternating knots is enough. For a 6-inch pot, add a fourth row.
Why 4 to 5 cm spacing instead of 3 cm? The extra gap creates openings that pothos and ivy stems can slide through. After you place the pot, you will guide the vines out through these gaps so they drape around the exterior of the hanger. Tighter spacing makes that impossible.
As you work through the alternating rows, hold your pot up to the work occasionally to check the basket width. The basket should cradle the pot at about the widest point, not at the rim.
Step 5: Tie the Base Gathering Knot
Once the basket section is wide enough to hold your pot, gather all 16 strands below the last row of alternating knots. Pull them together so the basket forms a cup shape at the bottom. Tie a tight gathering knot using the same wrapping method as in Step 2.
Leave 10 cm of cord below the base gathering knot. Trim the ends to a consistent length and unravel them by combing with your fingers or a fringe comb for a brushed fringe finish. Alternatively, trim the ends clean if you prefer a minimal look.
Step 6: Place Your Plant and Arrange the Vines
Set your pothos or ivy pot into the basket from above. The rim should rest on or just below the top row of square knots, and the body of the pot should sit inside the alternating knot section.
Now take each trailing stem and gently guide it out through one of the gaps in the basket. Do not force any stem — just thread it through and let gravity do the rest. Pothos vines in particular will begin to drape within a day or two as they respond to light. Avoid tucking stems inside the hanger where they cannot get air circulation.
Adjusting the Design for Different Pot Sizes
The measurements above are calibrated for a 4-inch nursery pot. Here is how to scale:
| Pot Size | Target Opening | Number of Alternating Rows | Cord Length per Cord | |---|---|---|---| | 4-inch | 10–11 cm | 2–3 rows | 3 meters | | 6-inch | 14–15 cm | 3–4 rows | 3.5 meters | | 8-inch | 18–20 cm | 4–5 rows | 4 meters |
For anything larger than 6 inches, consider using 5mm cord rather than 4mm for extra strength. Our cord for plant hangers guide covers which cord types hold up best under the weight of a heavy pot and damp soil.
Tips for Keeping Trailing Vines Looking Their Best
- Rotate the hanger weekly. Trailing plants grow toward the light. A weekly quarter-turn keeps the vines distributed evenly rather than all leaning one direction.
- Water carefully. Remove the pot from the hanger to water, let it drain fully, then return it. Dripping water will not damage the cord if it is 100% cotton, but repeated soaking shortens the hanger's life.
- Retrain vines occasionally. Pothos in particular will wrap around the cord if left alone for months. Gently unwrap any cord-hugging stems and redirect them through the basket gaps.
- Check the knots every few months. Gathering knots can loosen with the weight of a growing plant. If the base gathering knot starts to slip, re-tie it with a new short cord wrapped around the original.
What's Next
Once you are comfortable with this design, try adding texture to the column section. Our macrame plant hanger tutorial shows a version with spiral knots along the upper section that pairs particularly well with trailing plants. For more details on measuring cord before you cut, see our guide on how to measure cord for macrame plant hangers so you never run short mid-project.
