A macrame coaster is one of the most satisfying beginner projects because it is small, quick, and actually useful. The flat-weave alternating square knot pattern creates a firm, absorbent coaster in about 45 minutes using just a handful of cords and a ring. This tutorial walks you through a round coaster worked from the outside in — a great introduction to working in the round before you tackle plant hangers or wall hangings.
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What You Will Need
To make one coaster, you need:
- 3-ply macrame cord in 3mm or 4mm — 3-ply is important here. Single-strand cord is too soft and tends to shift rather than lying flat. The twist gives the coaster structure.
- 12 cord lengths, each 90cm (36 inches)
- One 10cm (4-inch) ring — metal or wooden, both work
- A macrame board with T-pins to hold the ring steady while you knot
- Sharp scissors
The 3-Ply Macrame Cord (Regular Rolls) from Bochiknot is a reliable choice for coasters — the twist holds the flat weave pattern well and the cotton is soft enough to handle comfortably. Use code KNOT10 for 10% off your order.
If you are brand new to macrame, it helps to read the beginner's guide to macrame first and familiarize yourself with the square knot before starting this project.
Why 3-Ply Cord Makes Better Coasters
Before diving into the steps, a quick note on cord choice: the structure of 3-ply cord is why it works so well for flat projects. The three twisted strands grip each other and the working cords around them, which keeps each knot from sliding once tied. Single-strand cord is fine for wall hangings where you want soft, flowing texture, but for a coaster that needs to stay flat and dense, 3-ply is the right call.
You can read more about the differences in our macrame cord types comparison if you want to go deeper on this.
How to Make a Macrame Coaster
This pattern works from the outer ring inward. You mount all your cords at the ring, then alternate your square knot groupings row by row until you reach the center.
Step 1: Mount Your Cords onto the Ring
Fold each of your 12 cord lengths in half and attach them to the ring using a lark's head knot. To tie a lark's head knot: fold the cord in half, place the folded loop over the ring from front to back, then pull the two loose ends through the loop and tighten.
Once all 12 cords are mounted, you will have 24 working ends hanging from the ring. Space them evenly around the ring so there are no large gaps. Pin the ring to your macrame board so it stays still while you work.
Step 2: Tie Your First Row of Square Knots
Group your cords into sets of four, starting at any point on the ring. Each group has:
- Two outer working cords (the ones you will knot with)
- Two inner filler cords (the ones the knot sits around)
Tie a square knot in each group. Work all the way around the ring until every group of four has one square knot. This is your first row.
Square knot reminder: The left cord crosses over the two fillers and under the right cord. Then the right cord goes under the fillers and up through the loop on the left. Pull tight. That is half a square knot. Repeat the mirror image to complete one full square knot.
If you want a refresher on this knot, the 5 macrame knots every beginner should learn guide covers the square knot in detail.
Step 3: Alternate Your Groupings for the Second Row
The alternating pattern is what weaves the coaster together and gives it strength. For row two:
- Take two cords from one group and two cords from the neighboring group to form new sets of four.
- Tie a square knot in each new group.
This shift means every other row connects adjacent groups together, interlocking the entire surface like a net. It is the same pattern used in macrame plant hangers and bags — it creates structure without rigidity.
Step 4: Continue Alternating Rows Toward the Center
Keep repeating the alternating pattern: one row in your original groupings, the next in the shifted groupings. Work inward toward the center of the ring with each row.
Tips for even tension:
- Each square knot should sit snugly against the row above it — no visible gaps, no bunching.
- Do not pull too hard or the coaster will curl inward.
- If a section looks looser than the rest, go back and gently tighten individual knots before they get locked in by subsequent rows.
The macrame board with T-pins is useful here — you can pin individual sections down to check that the rows are lying flat as you go. The 11x15" Macrame Board with T-Pins has a grid printed on it, which makes it easy to see if your work is staying symmetrical.
Step 5: Fill the Center
As you work toward the center, your groups will converge and you will have fewer cords to work with. The last few rows require a bit of improvisation:
- If you have enough cords for one final square knot group in the center, tie it.
- If the remaining cords cannot form a clean group of four, gather them all and tie a simple overhand knot to close the center, pulling it tight so no gap shows.
The center does not need to be perfect — once the coaster is turned right-side up and sitting on a table, the center is barely visible.
Step 6: Trim and Finish
Flip the coaster face-down. You will see the cord ends from all your knots on the back. Trim them to about 1cm and tuck them behind existing knots to hide them. A dab of fabric glue on each tucked end will keep them secure, though it is not strictly necessary for a tightly knotted coaster.
On the front, trim any cord ends at the outer edge flush with the ring for a clean, finished look. Alternatively, leave 2-3cm of fringe and brush it out for a soft, textured edge.
Getting the Tension Right
Flat-weave macrame lives and dies by even tension. Here are the most common tension problems beginners encounter with coasters:
Coaster is pulling inward like a bowl — your knots are too tight. Loosen your grip slightly when tying each square knot. The cord should be firm but not strained.
Coaster has visible gaps between rows — your knots are too loose or you are leaving too much space between rows. Slide each row of knots up against the previous row before moving on.
One side is tighter than the other — you are naturally tying one side of the square knot harder than the other. Consciously ease the pressure on your dominant hand.
With practice, your hands naturally settle into a consistent rhythm. The second coaster is always noticeably better than the first.
Making a Set of Coasters
One coaster takes about 45 minutes for a first attempt. By the third or fourth coaster you can get that down to 20-25 minutes. To make a matching set of four:
- Cut all your cords at once before you start — 48 lengths at 90cm each per set of four.
- Work on two coasters at the same time if you have two rings, alternating between them. It keeps the tension fresh in your hands.
- Keep a small piece of scrap cord as a tension guide so each coaster ends up the same tightness.
Cotton cord absorbs moisture well on its own, but if you want your coasters to be more functional, you can stiffen them slightly with a light spray of fabric stiffener. Let them dry flat.
What's Next
Once you have made a few coasters, you will have the alternating square knot pattern in your muscle memory — which means you are ready for larger flat-weave projects. Try the macrame plant hanger tutorial next, which uses the same knotting logic in a three-dimensional structure. For more ideas on what to make, browse our macrame wall hanging ideas for inspiration on where alternating square knot panels work beautifully as a design element.
