Picot edging is a decorative loop technique where you intentionally leave small exposed loops along a project's edge between each anchor knot, creating a lacy, scalloped border. It is one of those finishing details that immediately makes a piece look considered and intentional rather than just functional. If you have been making wall hangings or panels and want to level up your edges, this is the technique to learn next.
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What Is Picot Edging and Why It Matters
Most macrame edges are closed — cord goes in, knots form, and the side sits clean and straight. Picot edging deliberately breaks that pattern. Between each anchor knot, you leave a small loop of cord protruding outward. The result is a border that looks almost like tiny bows or arches running down the side of the piece.
The technique is borrowed from lace-making and crochet, where picots have been used for centuries to decorate edges. In macrame, it translates beautifully because the cord has just enough body to hold a loop shape when anchored with a firm knot below it.
Picots work especially well on:
- Wall hangings with defined panel borders
- Macrame curtain edges
- Square knotted sections where you want a decorative side frame
- Any project where the edge is visible and you want it to look finished
If you are still getting comfortable with basic knots, spend some time with the beginner's guide to macrame and 5 knots every beginner should learn before tackling this one. Once you can tie square knots confidently, picot edging is a natural next step.
What You Need
Cord
Single-strand cotton cord in 3mm or 4mm is the best choice for picot edging. The soft twist holds loops cleanly — the loop naturally wants to stay open before you tighten the knot beneath it. Braided cord tends to collapse the loop before you can anchor it, so stick with single-strand for this technique.
The Single-Strand Macrame Cord (Regular Rolls) from Bochiknot is exactly what you want here — consistent thickness, good drape, and it holds its shape through the knot sequence. Use code KNOT10 for 10% off your order.
A Macrame Board with T-Pins
This is the one tool that moves picot edging from frustrating to enjoyable. Pinning each loop before you tighten the knot below it is what keeps every loop the same size and in the right position. Working freehand, loops shift and shrink unevenly.
The 11x15" Macrame Board with T-Pins gives you a firm surface to pin into and a grid to help you space loops evenly. If you do much knotted work at all, this board pays for itself in consistency alone.
Basic Tools
- Scissors
- Measuring tape or a small piece of cardboard cut to your target loop height (a great low-tech spacer)
- A comb or brush if your project has fringe sections
How to Tie Picot Edging
Step 1: Cut and Mount Your Cords
Cut your working cords to at least four times your finished project length — picot edging does not use significantly more cord than a standard knotted edge, but you want margin. Mount them onto your dowel or ring using standard lark's head knots, spacing them evenly.
For a practice swatch to learn the technique, mount eight to ten cords on a short dowel. That gives you enough edge pairs to get the rhythm without committing to a full project.
Step 2: Pin a Loop on the First Edge Pair
Take the two outermost cords on one side of your project. These are your first picot pair. Pull them outward and away from the project — you are forming the loop here, not with the interior cords.
Push the cord outward to form a small arch. Aim for a loop height of about 1 to 1.5 cm for a delicate picot, or up to 2 cm for a bolder, more visible loop. Pin the top of the loop to your macrame board with a T-pin. The loop should sit comfortably above where your next knot will land.
Step 3: Tie the Anchor Knot
Below the pinned loop, tie your anchor knot — typically a square knot or a double half hitch, depending on your project's main pattern. Pull the knot firmly so it sits snug against the bottom of the loop. The knot locks the loop in place. Once it is tight, remove the T-pin.
The loop will now hold its shape on its own, anchored from below by the knot.
Step 4: Repeat Along the Edge
Work your way down the edge, one pair at a time. For each pair: push out the loop, pin it, tie the anchor knot below, remove the pin.
This is where your cardboard spacer trick is useful. Cut a piece of cardboard to your target loop height. Lay it against the edge cord before pinning — the cord arches over the top of the spacer, giving you an identical loop height every time. Remove the spacer, pin the loop, knot below.
Consistency is the whole game with picot edging. Loops that vary in size by even a few millimeters look irregular rather than intentional.
Step 5: Continue Your Main Pattern
Once your picot edge is established on the side section of your project, continue knotting the body of the piece as you normally would. The loops sit proud of the edge as you work — they are done and will not shift if you tied the anchor knots firmly.
If you are adding picot edging to both sides of a panel, establish the edge on the left side first for a few rows, then mirror it on the right before continuing down.
Step 6: Finish and Trim
When your project is complete, trim any cord ends to your intended length. If you have fringe below the picot section — common on wall hangings — brush it out with a comb for a fluffy finish. The picot loops themselves should not need trimming. They are complete as knotted.
Getting Consistent Loops: Common Mistakes
Loops too small. Usually happens when you pull the cord too tight before pinning. Let the loop sit relaxed against the board before securing the T-pin.
Loops collapse when you remove the pin. The anchor knot was not tight enough. Give the knot a firm tug downward before removing the pin — the loop should hold its shape immediately.
Loops lean inward. The anchor knot is sitting too close to the center of the project rather than at the edge. Make sure your knot is positioned right at the border of your working area.
Uneven spacing between loops. This happens when you do not standardize the distance between anchor knots. Count your cord strands between anchor points and keep that count consistent down the edge.
Variations to Try
Once you are comfortable with a basic single picot loop, there are several variations worth exploring:
Double picot: Leave two loops per anchor knot by forming two arches with extra cord length before knotting. This creates a fuller, more decorative edge.
Picot with beads: Thread a small wooden bead onto the loop before pinning it. The bead sits at the top of the arch and adds a jewelry-like detail. The Large Hole Wooden Beads work well here because the cord fits through without forcing.
Alternating loop heights: Use two cardboard spacers of different heights and alternate between them as you work down the edge. The variation creates a more dynamic, rhythmic border rather than a perfectly uniform one.
What's Next
Picot edging pairs beautifully with projects that have a lot of knotted structure — try applying it to a wall hanging (see macrame wall hanging ideas for project inspiration) or incorporate it into a plant hanger edge using the cord-sizing guidance in how to measure cord for macrame plant hangers. Once you start noticing edges on pieces you admire, you will see picot loops everywhere.
