A double macrame plant hanger suspends two plants from a single hook, using one continuous set of cords that divides and rejoins to form two stacked baskets at different heights. The key to the tiered structure is a mid-cord gathering knot that closes the upper basket, then a deliberate spacing gap before the lower basket begins — all without cutting or adding new cord. This tutorial walks you through the complete process, from cutting your cords to hanging your finished piece.
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What You Will Need
- 4mm single-strand cotton macrame cord — at least 100m total. A Single-Strand Macrame Cord (Jumbo Roll) is ideal here; you will use most of a standard roll. Use code KNOT10 for 10% off.
- S-Hook Rings — for the hanging loop at the top
- Macrame Measuring Tape — accurate cuts save frustration later
- Sharp scissors
- A ceiling hook or dowel to hang the work while you knot — this makes a big difference for tension
- Two plant pots — 10cm to 15cm (4" to 6") diameter works well for a first double hanger
If you have not made a single plant hanger before, start with the basic macrame plant hanger tutorial first. The double hanger builds on the same basket technique and adds the tiered structure on top.
Understanding the Structure Before You Start
A double plant hanger is not two separate hangers tied together. It is one hanger with three key sections:
- The crown — a gathering knot at the top that unifies all cords coming from the ring
- The upper basket — alternating square knots that cradle the first pot, closed with a gathering knot
- The spacing gap — a length of free-hanging cord between the two baskets
- The lower basket — the same alternating square knot pattern repeated, closed with a final knot and finished with fringe
The spacing gap is what gives the hanger its tiered look. A gap of 25 to 35 cm is standard; shorter gaps keep both pots close together, longer gaps create a more dramatic drop.
How to Make a Double Macrame Plant Hanger
Step 1: Cut Your Cords
Cut 12 lengths of cord, each 5 meters (about 16 feet) long. This may feel like a lot, but a double hanger consumes cord quickly between the two basket sections, the spiral arm sections, and the finishing fringe.
A Macrame Measuring Tape makes cutting consistent lengths much faster than re-measuring each cord individually.
Fold each cord in half. You will end up with 12 folded cords, giving you 24 working ends when mounted.
Step 2: Tie the Gathering Knot at the Top
Slide the folded midpoints of all 12 cords onto your S-hook ring so that 24 ends hang down. Cut a separate short cord about 60cm long — this is your wrapping cord.
Position the wrapping cord about 1 to 2 cm below the ring. Wrap it tightly around all 24 hanging cords 6 to 8 times, moving downward. Tuck the tail through the final loop and pull firmly to lock it. This is the crown gathering knot.
For reference on how gathering knots work, see the gathering knot tutorial.
Step 3: Divide Into Four Groups and Knot the Arms
Divide all 24 cords into four even groups of 6 cords each. Work with each group separately.
On each group, use the two outermost cords as working cords and the four inner cords as fillers. Tie a column of square knots (or half-hitch spiral knots for a twisted look) for 15 to 20 cm down from the gathering knot. These are the vertical arms that give the hanger its neck before the baskets begin.
Keep tension consistent across all four arms — hold the piece up periodically to check that the arms are even lengths.
Step 4: Create the Upper Basket
Once all four arms are knotted, you will join them with alternating square knots to form the first basket.
Take 3 cords from the right side of one arm and 3 cords from the left side of the adjacent arm. Tie a square knot with those 6 cords. Repeat all the way around, connecting all four arms. This is your first row of alternating square knots.
Drop down 3 to 4 cm and repeat — this is the second row, using the same staggered pairing. Two rows of alternating square knots create a basket wide enough to hold most standard pots.
For a wider or heavier pot, add a third row and space the rows slightly further apart.
Step 5: Tie the Upper Closing Knot
Bring all 24 cords together below the upper basket. Tie a gathering knot using a short separate cord (same technique as Step 2). This closes the bottom of the upper basket and holds the first pot in place.
Before fully tightening the gathering knot, drop your first pot in from above to check the fit. The basket should cradle the pot snugly without the rim slipping through the gaps. Adjust the alternating square knot spacing if needed, then tighten the gathering knot fully.
Step 6: Space Down to the Second Tier
Let all 24 cords hang freely below the upper closing knot. This free section creates the visual gap between the two pots.
Standard spacing: 25 to 35 cm (10 to 14 inches). For lower ceilings or smaller rooms, 20 cm is enough. For a dramatic cascading look, go up to 40 cm.
Do not tie anything in this section — the cords simply hang straight down from the upper closing knot to where the lower basket begins.
Step 7: Create the Lower Basket
At the point where your spacing gap ends, repeat the upper basket process:
- Divide cords into four groups of 6
- Tie two rows of alternating square knots, connecting adjacent groups
- Space rows 3 to 4 cm apart
The lower basket does not need a long arm section above it like the upper basket — the spacing gap serves that visual purpose. You can go straight from the spacing gap into the basket rows.
Step 8: Tie the Lower Closing Knot and Finish
Gather all cords below the lower basket and tie one final gathering knot to close the bottom. This knot holds the second pot in place.
For the fringe:
- Trimmed fringe: Cut all cords to an even length (8 to 12 cm below the knot) and leave them straight for a clean look
- Unraveled fringe: Separate the plies of each cord end and comb them out for a fluffy, textured finish
Trim any uneven lengths with scissors. Hang the finished hanger, insert both pots, and check the level — if one basket tilts, gently loosen and re-tighten its gathering knot to reposition the cords.
Tips for Getting the Tension Right
Hang while you work. Knotting a plant hanger flat on a table creates uneven tension. Hanging it from a hook and working downward lets gravity do the work and gives you accurate feedback on the shape.
Check symmetry frequently. After finishing each arm in Step 3, hold the whole piece up and look at it from arm's length. Uneven arm lengths compound — a 1 cm difference per arm looks obvious at the basket stage.
Use the pot as your gauge. After Step 4, try dropping the pot in before tying the closing knot. This is the only reliable way to know if your basket spacing is correct for your specific pot.
Consistent square knots beat fast square knots. A double hanger with 24 cords can feel overwhelming mid-project. Work one group at a time and do not rush the knots — uneven tightness is the most common source of a lopsided finished piece.
Cord Planning for a Double Hanger
Accurate measuring is one of the more important skills in macrame, and a double hanger uses more cord than most beginners expect. Here is a quick reference:
- 12 cords × 5 meters each = 60 meters of cord just for working cords
- Add at least 2 meters for wrapping cord (two gathering knots)
- Total: approximately 62 to 65 meters for a hanger with 25 cm spacing
The Single-Strand Macrame Cord (Jumbo Roll) contains enough cord for a full double hanger with some left over for practice knots or a small accent piece. For detailed cord measurement guidance, see how to measure cord for macrame plant hangers.
Choosing the Right Pots
Any pot with a rim works in a double hanger — the basket holds the pot by cradling it from below and the rim keeps it from slipping through. A few considerations:
- Terracotta pots are heavy but stable. Fill them before hanging to test the weight.
- Plastic nursery pots are light and easy to swap when you want to repot a plant.
- Ceramic pots without drainage holes can be used as outer covers with a plastic nursery pot nested inside.
- Match or contrast the pot sizes — two identical sizes look structured and intentional; different sizes (say, 12 cm upper, 10 cm lower) look more organic.
What's Next
Once you are comfortable with the two-basket structure, experiment with adding textured knots along the arms — spiral knots give the arm sections a twisted rope look that works beautifully in a double hanger. If you want to try a different knot style entirely before building out a full hanger, the beginner's guide to macrame covers all the core knots you will encounter in more complex projects.
