The clove hitch knot is the foundational building block of nearly every macrame pattern you will ever make. It is a two-loop knot tied by a working cord around a carrier cord, and mastering it unlocks the rows, diagonals, and geometric shapes that define modern macrame. This tutorial covers all three main variations — horizontal, diagonal, and vertical — so you stop guessing which one to use and start knotting with confidence.
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What You Will Need
- 4mm cotton macrame cord — a beginner-friendly weight that is large enough to see each loop clearly
- 6 to 8 working cords, each approximately 60cm (24 inches) long
- 1 carrier cord, approximately 80cm (32 inches) long
- A macrame board with T-pins, or a clipboard with tape to hold the carrier cord taut
- Sharp scissors
- About 30 minutes for a first practice session
The Macrame Cord for Beginners (4mm 100m Roll) is an ideal starting cord for this exercise — use code KNOT10 for 10% off. Pair it with the 11x15" Macrame Board with T-Pins to keep your carrier cord locked in position while both hands form the knots.
If you have not yet worked through basic macrame knots, the beginner's guide to macrame is the best starting point before this tutorial.
Understanding the Clove Hitch Knot
Before touching your cord, it helps to understand what a clove hitch actually does. A clove hitch is not a standalone structure — it always requires two cords playing different roles:
- The carrier cord (also called the holding cord or anchor cord) stays stationary and determines the direction of your row or line.
- The working cord moves around the carrier, forming two overlapping loops that grip the carrier in place.
The key insight: the direction of the carrier cord controls the type of clove hitch. Hold it horizontally and you get a horizontal row. Angle it diagonally and you get a diagonal line. Hold it vertically and you get a vertical column. The knotting motion is the same in every case.
How to Tie a Clove Hitch Knot
Step 1: Set Up Your Working Cords
Cut 6 to 8 working cords, each about 60cm long. Pin or tape them side by side on your board, spaced about 1cm apart. Cut one carrier cord about 80cm long — you will use this to practice all three variations.
Step 2: Position the Carrier Cord Horizontally
Lay the carrier cord straight across all your working cords. Pin both ends to the board so the carrier is held taut. A taut carrier is critical — if it sags, your row will curve and look uneven.
Step 3: Tie the First Loop of a Clove Hitch
Take the leftmost working cord. Bring it up and over the carrier cord from front to back, then pull it down and to the right so it wraps around the carrier. This is the first loop. Do not tighten yet.
Step 4: Tie the Second Loop to Complete the Knot
Bring the same working cord up and over the carrier cord again from front to back. This second loop must cross over the first loop, not under it. Pull the working cord straight down firmly. The two loops grip the carrier and hold the knot in place. One clove hitch is complete.
This is the detail beginners most often get wrong: the second loop must cross over the first. If you bring it under the first loop instead, the knot will slip under tension.
Step 5: Repeat Across All Working Cords
Move to the second working cord and repeat the same two-loop motion. Continue left to right across all cords. Push each finished knot snugly against the previous one before moving on. The finished row should look like a clean, even ridge across your work.
Step 6: Try a Diagonal Clove Hitch Row
Pin your carrier cord at a diagonal angle — roughly 30 to 45 degrees from horizontal. Knot each working cord onto the diagonal carrier exactly the same way as the horizontal row. The result is a clean angled line. Change the angle of the carrier and you change the steepness of the diagonal. This is how macrame patterns create V shapes, chevrons, and leaf forms.
Step 7: Try a Vertical Clove Hitch
For vertical clove hitches, the roles reverse. One of your cords becomes the carrier — hold it taut vertically (pin it top and bottom). The adjacent cords each wrap twice around this vertical carrier using the same two-loop motion. Vertical clove hitches create column-like textures and are common in tapestry-style pieces.
The Three Variations Side by Side
Horizontal Clove Hitch
- Carrier direction: Left to right (or right to left)
- What it makes: A straight horizontal row — the foundation of most macrame grids
- Common uses: Framing sections of a wall hanging, creating solid bands between knotted patterns
Diagonal Clove Hitch
- Carrier direction: Angled 15 to 60 degrees from horizontal
- What it makes: A diagonal line, chevron, or V shape depending on how you pair rows
- Common uses: Geometric diamonds, leaf shapes, chevron patterns, and the defining lines of modern boho pieces
Vertical Clove Hitch
- Carrier direction: Top to bottom
- What it makes: Vertical columns or a woven-looking texture
- Common uses: Adding texture variation within a piece, creating columns of knots between horizontal sections
Common Clove Hitch Mistakes
Rows that look wavy: Usually caused by inconsistent tension. Each knot must be pulled to the same tightness and pushed flush against the previous knot. Letting one knot sit loose before you move on creates gaps and bowing.
Second loop slipping: The second loop is going under the first instead of over it. If the knot feels like it slides on the carrier when you tug the working cord, undo it and check the loop order.
Carrier cord bending out of position: You are pulling the working cord downward with too much force, or the carrier is not pinned tightly enough. Pin the carrier ends firmly before you start, and pull each knot down with steady pressure rather than a hard jerk.
Uneven spacing between knots: Push each finished knot against the previous one before you start the next working cord. Do not let knots drift along the carrier.
Choosing Cord for Clove Hitch Practice
For learning, a smooth, round cord in the 3mm to 4mm range is ideal because the loops are large enough to see and the cord holds knot shape well. The Macrame Cord for Beginners (4mm 100m Roll) gives you enough length to run dozens of practice rows without running out.
Once you are comfortable with the motion, try the 3-Ply Macrame Cord (Regular Rolls) for a slightly firmer texture that shows diagonal rows especially crisply. For cord thickness guidance, the macrame cord size guide breaks down when to use 3mm, 4mm, or 5mm.
Where Clove Hitches Appear in Real Projects
Once you can tie a clean clove hitch row, you will start recognizing them everywhere:
- Plant hangers: The gathering rows that cinch cord bundles into neat sections are often horizontal clove hitch rows
- Wall hangings: Chevron and diamond patterns are built entirely from diagonal clove hitch rows worked in opposing directions
- Macrame feathers: The center spine of a macrame feather is a vertical carrier cord with working cords clove-hitched onto it on both sides
For a practical application, the macrame plant hanger tutorial uses horizontal clove hitch rows to structure the cradle section. And the macrame wall hanging ideas post shows how diagonal rows combine to form the geometric shapes you see in finished pieces.
What's Next
The clove hitch is your most versatile knot — once it feels natural, combine it with 5 essential macrame knots to start building complete patterns. If you are ready to apply it in a full project, the spiral knot macrame tutorial pairs well with clove hitch rows for a beginner-friendly finished piece.
